Retinyl Palmitate Is the Gentler Alternative to Retinol

Anyone with a skincare routine has probably heard of retinol. Also known as vitamin A, it's arguably the most popular and effectiveanti-aging ingredient. The only problem is that retinol comes with some side effects, especially if you have sensitive skin. Fortunately, there's a gentler, but just as effective alternative: retinyl palmitate.Sometimes called vitamin A palmitate, it's the least powerful retinoid. It's a solid option for those with extremely sensitive skin who still want to experience the benefits of retinol in their skincare routines without irritation.

Ahead, find out what makes retinyl palmitate such a special ingredient, why it's the best retinoid for sensitive skin, and how to use it in your skincare routine.

What Is Retinyl Palmitate?

Before we get to the specifics, it's important to talk about the larger category of retinoids in general. There are four commonly used in skincare, all of which are derivatives of vitamin A and have similar effects, aka speeding up cell turnover on the surface of the skin smoothing, more even texture, while also working on the deeper layers to stimulate collagen production and fight wrinkles.

On one side of the spectrum is retinoic acid. Also known as tretinoin, it's available only with a prescription and is undeniably the most potent of the bunch. Retinoic acid is the most active and effective retinoid, but also has the highest potential for irritation. On the opposing end is over-the-counter retinyl palmitate, which dermatologists agree is notably less effective (though that's not necessarily a bad thing). Retinyl palmitate can be a better option for some because it's less irritating. It's less effective, but will be more comfortable to use consistently and continually. Also of note: Retinol and retinaldehyde, are available OTC and fall somewhere in the middle in terms of efficacy and irritation.

Benefits of Retinyl Palmitate for Skin

Just because it’s less effective than its counterparts doesn't mean it's not doing anything for your skin—we are, at the end of the day, still dealing with a retinoid. Like its fellow retinoids, retinyl palmitate acts both on the surface and within deeper layers of the skin.

♦ Speeds up cell turnover:It causes the cells on the epidermis—the outermost layer of the skin—to rapidly turn over and die. This sounds sinister, but it makes way for new cell growth underneath.

♦ Brightens skin: The exfoliating aspects of the ingredient may result in smoother, more radiant skin with less discoloration and an overall more even tone.

♦ Reduces the appearance of wrinkles: Retinoids hinder the breakdown of collagen. It also thickens the epidermis and dermis, which is where wrinkles begin to form.

♦ Antioxidant properties: Retinyl palmitate can help with antioxidant protection of the skin.

♦ Stimulates collagen production: And besides inhibiting collagen breakdown, it also stimulates new collagen: Once retinyl palmitate is converted to retinoic acid in the skin, it binds to specific receptors in the cells that lead to increased collagen production.

♦ Keeps pores clear: In speeding up cell turnover and acting as an exfoliant, as previously mentioned, it may also help unclog pores and keep them clear, which is why it's often found in acne treatments.

♦ Available over-the-counter: Unlike some super skincare ingredients, products containing retinyl palmitate are available in most beauty and drugstores.

♦ Fast-absorbing: As it is a retinol, retinyl palmitate is easily absorbed by the skin.

Retinol vs. Retinyl Palmitate

They're both retinoids, which means that they're converted to retinoic acid, the most active and effective form in the skin. The dermatologist compares retinoic acid to espresso while retinyl palmitate is green tea.

Retinol only undergoes one conversion step to become retinoic acid while retinyl palmitate undergoes three steps. Retinyl palmitate is the weakest version, but also the least irritating, so it's a better option for someone who is new to using retinoids or has sensitive skin.

How to use it?

Retinoids are often deactivated by sunlight and can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. So first and foremost, make sure to always reserve retinyl palmitate for nighttime use (this is made easier by the fact that it's often found in night creams and serums). To that point, be extra diligent about using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least an SPF 30 during the day as well.

Slow and steady is the name of the application game. Just like you wouldn't run a marathon without proper training, give your skin time to get used to the intensity of this ingredient. You can applying a small amount to a quarter-sized area on your lower cheek every other night for a week, followed by a moisturizer. If there's no redness or irritation on this test spot, then you can start applying it to your entire face, but still just three times per week. After two weeks, you can step it up to nightly application.

Side Effects

Since retinyl palmitate is so gentle, side effects such as itching, redness, and peeling are rare but tend to be minimal if they do happen. If you have extremely sensitive skin or a condition like rosacea and eczema, it's best to use retinyl palmitate with caution or avoid it altogether to ensure you don't experience irritation.