Panthenol: The Versatile Ingredient Making Waves in the Beauty Industry

2024-08-23

Panthenol, also known as proVitamin B5, is a biologically active precursor of pantothenic acid, or vitamin B5. There are two isomers of this molecule: D-panthenol and L-panthenol. While both forms have moisturizing properties, only the D form is biologically active. In cosmetics, panthenol is incorporated solely in its D form or as a racemic mixture (equal proportions of D-panthenol and L-panthenol).

Once absorbed, provitamin B5 is quickly oxidized into pantothenic acid in the tissues. This latter plays a crucial role in numerous metabolic processes as a component of coenzyme A, a molecule essential to the metabolism of carbohydrates, lipids, and proteins. Vitamin B5 is also involved in the biosynthesis of fatty acids, steroid hormones, and neurotransmitters: thus, it holds significant importance for the body and ensures the proper functioning of various biological systems.

One of the most notable benefits of panthenol is its ability to deeply moisturize and hydrate skin and hair. When used topically, panthenol is easily absorbed and converted into pantothenic acid, a key ingredient in maintaining the skin’s natural moisture barrier. This makes it an ideal ingredient in products that soothe and repair dry, damaged or irritated skin.

In addition to its moisturizing properties, panthenol has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, making it an excellent choice for products that calm sensitive or sun-damaged skin. Its ability to promote skin regeneration and wound healing further enhances its appeal in the skin care industry.

Additionally, panthenol has been shown to be beneficial for hair health as well. It penetrates the hair shaft to help improve elasticity, hydration and overall hair texture. This makes it a popular ingredient in shampoos, conditioners, and hair care products, especially those for dry, brittle, or damaged hair.

Panthenol’s versatility extends to its use in cosmetics, where it can be found in foundation, lipstick, and other cosmetics. Its moisturizing and conditioning properties make it a valuable addition to these products, providing a smooth and nourishing texture while also contributing to the overall health of the skin.

The panthenol found in cosmetics is of synthetic origin. The initial molecule used is 3,3-dimethyl-1-butanol. By adding water, this organic compound is hydrated into 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid. This is then converted into panthenol via a reaction involving the use of a reducing agent such as sodium borohydride (NaBH4).

Once the synthesis reaction is completed, the panthenol is purified to remove impurities and obtain a high-quality final product. This purification involves distillation and filtration steps to achieve the desired purity. Finally, the panthenol is made to react with an alkaline substance such as sodium or potassium hydroxide to recover its salt form, with which it is easier to formulate cosmetics.